To keep from getting burnout and frustrated with the Rucci suit, I decided to pencil in simple projects and UFOs between each piece. Today, it’s the Harper Jacket from Style Arc. Later this week, I hope a UFO, then the muslin for the Rucci jacket.
I purchased the Harper-Skye-Sammi trio to make a dressy/business casual outfit. I made the Skye top, but I really don’t like it know that I’ve worn it a few times (needs major fit alterations, I’ve decided). The version for the outfit was going to have a Skye top in a gold silk charmeuse, so it would drape better, perhaps I’ll make it once I figure out how to improve its wear-ability.
The sourness on the outfit continued, because the blue knit I ordered doesn’t really work with the navy-dusted-with gold tropical wool suiting set aside for the Sammi pants. But I decided to make it anyway, just because. Oh, my sourness continued, because I’m not terribly fond of raw edges. So imagine my surprise – I like it.
The fabric: The pattern calls for a stable knit or a drapey woven. I went back and forth between this one and a St. Johns doubleknit (which I think I would have preferred). It’s a viscose/wool boucle knit (60/40). It’s not thick, per se, but it does have some loft. While it’s beautiful, and has the perfect drape, this is going to be a warm jacket. Considering our winter is very short, I’m considering keeping this one at the office to battle the frigid A/C!
Construction and Instructions: Style Arc keeps their directions to a minimum, but they do have additional instructions printed on the patterns. Pay attention – the default seam width is 3/8″. In general, if you can sew, you can make this very easy jacket (in an afternoon). I always find it helpful to keep a copy of the Vogue Sewing guide just in case. Still, I never quite figured out what they meant by mitering the corner turn. By the way, this jacket is very similar in construction (for the body) to the Rucci blouse (1437).
My only real quibble is with the back neck seam. First, the directions suggest a French seam here. Not really possible with this knit (too thick). Second, I found that I didn’t like the collar up, but folded over – your seam will show, so choose carefully. I ended up doing a messy flat-fell.
Small details: I used a clapper to get seams, especially crossing ones, flat. I also top-stitched the shoulders, back, neck, and side seams 1/4 inch. I like it, and it helps keep the insides more finished. I serged the armhole seams. I also decided early on (from others’ reviews) that I wasn’t going to use the hook and eye closures.
Fitting: I made a size ten, and it fits beautifully, hitting right at the top of the high hip in back (very nice). I normally wear a 12 in the big 4; Style Arc’s fit guide suggested a ten. The front drapes nicely, but doesn’t hang like in the drawings. I don’t mind high back collars, but without interfacing, this neck slouches, so I folded it over.
What I learned: go ahead and try something out of your comfort zone. This is a nice jacket, if I bit casual. I still don’t like raw edges. I’m not sure I will make it again, as I have other jacket styles on the list. But it will keep me very warm in the cold office.