Summer time! (New Look 6483; Marfy 1913; Pattern Runway Sweet Scalloped Shorts)

Whew, long title.  I almost didn’t blog these four interchangeable items, but I love how the Marfy top and white shorts came out.  I had to share.  These two outfits make use of old fabrics (the tops) and new (the shorts).  And I now own three pairs of non-running shorts (all Pattern Runway). (Everything was worn and washed a few times before picture time, my pressing needs some work!)

Top: New Look 6483 View C

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I need more tops in my wardrobe, so one day while browsing at JoAnns, I picked up this New Look pattern.  It’s pretty basic, and pretty easy.  I meant to make view E, but cut out C by mistake.  The fabric is a leftover linen print (Marcy Tilton) from when I made this summer dress a couple of years ago.  When I was cleaning out my fabric closet, I found I had one more yard.  The fabric has a bit of body, but works with this loose-fitting top.

I had no problems with the instructions, and I will repeat this basic, but with modifications.  First, the neckline is higher than I expected, but you don’t need the button/loop closure (or hook/eye) in the back, at least for views C, D, and E.  Second, I don’t really find the straight hemline with split side seams a flattering look for me, so I may convert the hem to a curved shirt-tail hem next time.  Third, I suspect the boxy look will be more body conscious with a drapey fabric (recommended on the envelop).

Top: Marfy 1913 Repeat

free sewing patterns
Marfy 1913, from the website.

I loved the Marfy top the first time I made it – but I didn’t wear it often because it felt small.  I must have washed it and shrunk it.  When I compared it to the pattern pieces to make this one, it was much smaller than the pieces!

This time, though, I did add some width.  Unconventionally, I added width at the center front and center back at the fold line (shifted the pattern off the fold by 1/4 inch). I also added two inches to the length.  Once again, I didn’t gather the hemline with elastic, but left it to tuck in to shorts/pants/skirt.

The fabric is a silk cotton voile from Milly that I purchased in 2014 from Gorgeous Fabrics. It was softer and more sheer than I wanted for the original project, so was stashed.  It was still sheer and soft, of course, so I decided to line the top with an off white silk crepe de chine.  This made finishing the keyhole/slit opening in the back as well as the armholes far simpler.  I LOVE THIS TOP!  It’s pretty on, cheerful in the very, very, hot sun.  It even held up to a complete drenching when I was caught in a downpour at my son’s outdoor swim practice last week.

It looks way better on me than in these photos (but too lazy to do even a bathroom selfie):

Shorts:  Pattern Runway Sweet Scalloped Shorts Repeat

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I loved the first version of these (and still wear them). I’ve been meaning to make another pair for some time.  I made two pair.  I really love the very clear instructions, and I like the use of differing seam allowances (1/4 inch and 3/8ths inch) to eliminate trimming (which I rarely do evenly). I made a size medium (I wear 14 in big four, often larger).  I also love the flattering lines and good fit.

I didn’t do the welt pockets.  I started with the navy shorts, intending to do the welt pockets, but the fabric had too much stretch and all my stitching lines for the welts were warped and wavy (even with interfacing).  I wanted to get these done, so I carefully picked out the work and moved on.

The navy shorts are a cotton twill from Fabric Mart fabrics.  The fabric was super inexpensive, with more lycra than I would like.  I struggled at times to manage the stretch.  The fabric is what it is, and makes a fine pair of shorts.  And yes, it looks like I need to press them again (ditto for the white).

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The white shorts are amazing!  This “pique texture” white cotton from Gorgeous Fabrics was perfect for this pattern.  (I bought it early June, so I think there is still some left).  I love the Milly/Marfy top with the white shorts!  So summer!

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Shorts! Pattern Runway Sweet Scalloped, that is.

I met my husband a little over eleven years ago.  And eleven years ago this past week, we had a weekend date in Sedona, Arizona.  We went hiking, and I wore shorts.  When the pictures came back (!), I vowed that I would never, ever, wear shorts again (except running shorts while running).  My legs looked like sausages – the cut and length were all wrong.  I’ve stuck to dresses and skirts and pants.  And, yes, they make skirts and skorts just for hiking.

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Now I live in a climate that is summer for about 9 months of the year, and I’m better at sewing, so I’ve been contemplating making shorts that fit and flatter my body.  When Rachel posted her review of the Pattern Runway Sweet Scalloped shorts, I was smitten.

Trouble was, could I make these work for me, when I don’t have Rachel’s long, slender legs?  I thought the scalloped hem would help lengthen the leg and not cut it off in an awkward way.  Upshot, I like the shorts – even if I haven’t seen a picture of me wearing them yet (always the test right?)

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What I liked:

  • Awesome instructions!  Well marked pdf pattern, making assembling the thing less of a pain.
  • That beautiful, faced scallop hem!  It really is easy to do and makes the shorts more upscale.
  • The shaped/contour waistband and directions for applying the waistband (new to me, led to a more professional result, less handwork).
  • Directions for adjusting the crotch depth.  Wow! what a difference.  I was skeptical of reducing as much as it recommended, and did 1/4 inch less.  This worked with the muslin (non stretch med-heavy twill), but my fashion fabric had stretch, so I should have followed their guideline. I made a medium, and this was the only alteration I made. I’m slightly larger than a 12 in Vogue, not quite a 14.
  • Good coverage on the bum, without being frumpy (again, I think the front scallop makes the difference).

What I did differently:

  • Not much.  No really, I pretty much followed the directions with two exceptions.
  • I used my own (well Lladybird’s) method to insert an invisible zipper.  I didn’t like the result using the instructions on the muslin, so I went back to the TNT method.
  • Left of the back welt pockets.  I couldn’t get them to work in the muslin, so I abandoned the idea.  I think I like the shorts better without, but I really need to learn how to do these.
  • The fabric, the last bit of a stretch tropical wool from Gorgeous Fabrics that I’ve used three times previously (two skirts, pants), is NICE.  The quarter inch top stitching is nice on the more casual twill, but for this fabric, it looked way more professional to stick with 1/8 inch edgestitching.

IMG_0004What I will do differently:

  • The zipper is currently inserted in the side seam with the pocket. The bulk of the zipper, pocket, and pocket lining (cotton batiste) means the zipper doesn’t lay flat.  It annoys me!   Next time I will do like Rachel and put it in the CB seam.

Wearability:

  • I’m traveling a lot right now, and wore these in Miami last week.  Black wool in Miami heat and humidity?   Perfectly comfortable.
  • They’ve stretched a bit, super comfy, but a teensy bit too big.  Just something to work on for the next pair.

I’ve been and will be super busy with work, so pictures and blogging are limited.  Wait, so is sewing.  I had planned to finish a silk tunic for these shorts, but won’t be sewing consistently for a while.  Once I get the top made, I’ll blog it and provide pictures of the whole outfit.  That’s when I will know for sure if the style really works for me!