The Halloween Post (Simplicity 8482)

This year, DH and DS went out together to purchase costumes.  They wanted to do Fortnite.  I opted to go as Trinity from Matrix Reloaded.   Simplicity 8482 (B) is almost exactly like Trinity’s duster in the movie.

Simplicity Pattern 8482 Misses' Costume Coats
From Simplicity
From Fandom: Matrix

 

Sewing on imitation latex (backed with a knit fabric), isn’t that difficult.  But I couldn’t press, ease, baste or other things I deem essential to a quality result.  Oh, and several of the match points (notches) were off in the pattern.

I ordered the fabric from Mood, and they rolled it beautifully and carefully.  Unfortunately, the post office damaged it – and I can’t press polyurethane!  Most of it hung out, fortunately.  And, yes, I did have to cut this single layer.

Top-stitching also proved a challenge – even with a teflon foot, it was hard to get the fabric to move smoothly.  And, even though I tested, tested, tested, my top stitching thread, plus top stitching needle would not go – shred the thread!

Here I am, sweating. It was 85 F (29.4 C) while trick-or-treating with my kid.  I did some nominal fitting before starting, but at the last minute changed out the shoulder pads to much thicker ones (without looking to see how that would add to the already pulled look).  So don’t mind the bad fitting, please.  And, keep in mind that Carrie Moss and I may share the same height, but she was 25 pounds lighter than me in that duster!

img_4403.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

Successful Failure? B6554

Summer sewing?  But it’s fall!  Yes, it is even fall here in Florida, but summer warmth is still part of our days.  This dress started as McCall 7745, and ended up as skirt.  Last May I determined that I really liked view D of McCall 7745, and purchased the yellow viscose/linen that became a hi-lo skirt.  When the fabric arrived, I changed my mind and ordered a lovely blue print Hawaiian rayon challis (Tori Richards) to make the dress (fabric from Fabric Mart).

McCall 7745, view D

The reviews for McCall 7745, view D, were overwhelmingly negative, so I made a muslin for the bodice.  For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how to adjust the muslin.  It was too big through the bust, but with no wiggle room at all to lift the arms!  I gave up and switched to view B, but wasn’t thrilled about the design.  It had too much flounce for me.

Butterick 6554

Butterick 6554, view B has a very similar feminine silhouette but a little less frilly, so I thought I would try again.  I spent some time tweaking a muslin, and then it was time to leave on vacation for summer – and I hadn’t even cut anything out.  Three weeks ago, I thought I would pick up were I left off, and cut it out for the Luau we were throwing.  I didn’t finish in time for the Luau, but I did finish it for my kid’s school carnival today.  And I hated it!

I must have misread the markings I had transferred from the muslin to the pattern tissue. And I’m convinced that wrap dresses with raglan sleeves are not a flattering look for me.

Without any hesitation, I cut the bodice off and stitched on a grosgrain waistband with hooks and eyes.  Much better, very comfortable, and still feminine without being too girly.

We’re thinking about a vacation in Portugal next summer – so even though it’s cool enough for a sweatshirt here (in the morning), I’ve got something to take with me!

Pictures:

IMG_4371
Before pressing. I had a bad feeling about it. Trying it on confirmed it.  This long-waisted gal can’t wear this wrap dress.

IMG_4376
Much better!

I have little time, but loads of inspiration!

Well, the new position, along with preparing for hurricanes, means I have had little time for sewing regularly or for any extended periods of time.  I have had the week off because of Dorian, but so has the kiddo.  Still, I began to think about the next few dozen projects.

No really.  When I have no time to sew, I plan.  Here’s a snapshot of some of the projects I’m working on, or hope to complete:

IMG_4300[1]

The good news, some are already in progress.

  1. Vogue 1526, Paco Peralta short-sleeved jacket and pant (I made the shirt some time ago).  This is almost finished, as in hopefully this week.  Details coming up.
  2. The Kay Unger color block is up next, as an easy-do-right-now-option.  I’ll be doing it in black and white rayon ponte leftover from other projects.
  3. To the left of Kay Unger is a Molyneux vintage dress. I’ll be doing this in a gorgeous black/silver bamboo woven.  The pattern is vintage – and too small  – so a little pattern grading is in order.
  4. The Kwik Sew men’s coat is cut out.  I promised it two years ago to DH.  I’ve got to take the time to finish it.
  5. The Patterson Couturier will be in a a gorgeous plaid.
  6. The Guy Laroche suit (top left) is cut out and about half done.  I started it last spring, but it won’t be cold enough to wear it for several weeks.
  7. The Butterick summer dress in a Tori Richards rayon challis print for a Luau in October.
  8. The Paco Peralta zip front in a burgundy denim.
  9. The remaining three (bottom left):  Montana, LaRoche and Edith Head – I don’t have the right fabric for these yet.  And, I have many other patterns paired with projects I can work on until I do…

And, my plans usually get upended. I know there are another half dozen projects awaiting my attention, some cut, some long-desired. And I need a coat.  Hopefully, I get the first four on my list completed without deviating. After that, who knows.

And, no, we aren’t in any danger from Hurricane Dorian, though last week we were prepping in earnest!

Grandma

My grandmother died 20 years ago this past  weekend. It’s hard to believe it’s been that many years. I remember packing my car to drive from the North Shore of Long Island to Upstate South Carolina for the funeral like it was yesterday.  It was packed with books, as I was to take my comps the next week.  So much has happened since then – in the blink of an eye.

Margaret and Ed Guy
Grandma, with her future husband.  He died when I was two.

Before she died, she spent about 10 years (or more) struggling with Alzheimer’s. Back then, we didn’t really know what Alzheimer’s was, and just thought she was a little kooky. As grand-kids, I don’t think we were especially kind, though by the mid-90s, and my mid-20s, we knew she wasn’t odd, but that something was really wrong.  I found my compassion then, but it was too late to get to know her.

 

Carol and Margaret Guy Christmas
Grandma, with my mom, and their dog Debbie.  My mom is fairly advanced with Alzheimer’s.

My relationship with  my grandmother was complicated. My grandmother didn’t like that I was in politics… she wanted me to find a husband, have children, settle down. I did that eventually, and even became the teacher she thought I should be. Along the way, she taught me to garden, preserve food, and to sew.

Ed and Margaret Guy in Knoxville TN
Grandma, with grandad just before he set out for WWII.

I’m going through all the family files and photos, and I’m seeing a different woman than the grandmother I knew.  She laughed a lot.  That’s what striking

My grandmother was a remarkable in ways that I can finally respect. She married young, into what became career military.  At that time, it meant raising her daughter while her husband was at war (three wars!!). Later, she returned to her homestead in South Carolina with a new husband (the man I would know as my grandfather, as her first husband died when I was 2). There she forged a career of sorts for herself at Converse College.

John and Margaret Melton
Grandma with her second husband, the man I would know as Grandpa.

My  grandmother was a really great seamstress, helping me to learn the finer points of sewing.  She was also into millinery.

One of the things I’ve learned about her in recent days is just how good a seamstress she always was – even if I didn’t appreciate it much as a middle school kid. In this picture, she is wearing an outfit she curated, sewing the dress herself. It’s 1940, she’s not quite 17, and she had just won the dress revue for the State of South Carolina 4-H club. She was headed for a free trip to Chicago to the national 4-H meetings.  Her budget:  $10.

Margaret Finch
Grandma, in the dress that won her the dress revue competition for the state of SC in 1940.

 

IMG_3967[1]

My sewing space is a disaster…

I’d like to say I’ve been sewing, but I haven’t for about a month.  Too many things demanding my time, and I’ve been exhausted.  I mentioned I start a new job in the fall (at the same place), but parts of that job have already begun, while I continue with the old.  And when I don’t sew, I buy fabric.  Ooops.

In any case, this is the state of my sewing room with two abandoned – no just set aside for now – projects in disarray (the Guy Laroche suit and a skirt/top combo).

IMG_3901

Work isn’t the only thing keeping me busy.  I’ve been working on two side projects as well.  Project #1 is scanning, organizing, and archiving all of the family photos.  My dad died a year ago tomorrow, and we’re still cleaning out the house.  I’ve scanned 1000 photos so far – photos that go back to the 1880s. I’m not kidding when I say there are about 3000 more to go (though I think many are duplicates).  It’s a challenging project, as many of the photos aren’t labeled, so I’ve been in contact with other relatives for help.  It’s also a joyous one!  I’m seeing my parents and grandparents as children and young adults.  It makes them more complex, interesting. I’ve also found pictures of my grandfather’s flight crew in World War II (Pacific theater), and I’m trying to locate their families so I can send them these snapshots.

IMG_3902

Ed Guy and Crew
“October 1945 Okinawa. Rebuilding of Enlisted Men’s Tent of the Crew. After Typhoon. LtoR: Bill Maher, Joe Collins, George Magar and me.” (my grandfather)

Project #2 is the ongoing re-landscaping of our yard and garden.  My window for planting is nearly gone – it will soon be too hot for that.

Meanwhile, here’s a picture of some of the fabrics I’m hoping to sew up in the next few weeks.  I have other projects mixed in there too, but I only pulled a few of the linens out for the time being.  I need tops/blouses, and I have some beautiful linen, silk, and cotton fabrics to make those.

IMG_3903

Unfinished Projects, Part 1: On the Agenda

Unfinished projects, a.k.a, UFOs, or works in progress (WIP)?  This is the first of three blog posts about the status of my semi-abandoned projects.  I’ve been sewing, but I also spent time reorganizing my sewing closet, including the pile of UFOs. In this post, I write about my plans for what I’m calling works in progress, since these are back on the agenda for 2019. In the second part of this series, I look for advice about what to do with other unfinished projects.  I seek advice regarding refashioning several projects in the final post.

 1. The Vintage Vogue Long Coat (Vogue 1083):

I started this project in 2010.  I remember buying this fabric at Rosen and Chaddick’s in New York City.  It was such a fun experience.  The fabric is a merlot colored wool-cashmere blend and boy, was it expensive. The pattern calls for an interlining – I used cotton flannel – and lining (I used black warmback coat lining).  This is a heavy coat, both in weight and in warmth.  It’s too heavy for most Florida days, but I was living outside Washington, DC, when I started this project.

I looked at where I stopped, and I’m ALMOST DONE!  I need to finish attaching the lining at the sleeves and hem, and finish the bound buttonhole.  I remember it taking me a long time, and I stopped because Spring had come.  I also didn’t like the collar, and for some reason it dawned on me that it wouldn’t be that warm because, it only had one button at the neck.  How did I not see that before?  However, we do get some very cold (below freezing) mornings here, so it will be useful for that, even if it doesn’t get much wear.  In addition, when I draped it on the dress form, I liked the unbuttoned, shawl collar effect.  Again, an open coat isn’t an issue here in Florida, so I like the style again.

2. The Short Trench (Vogue 8884):

IMG_0680

Started:  2013.  Another project that should be complete, but is not.  I had trouble easing the sleeves into the armscye properly.  I’ve already cut the lining, so there is no reason I can’t finish this one in 2019.  This coat would get considerably more wear here in Florida in the winter, except for the cold, cold days.

The fabric is a coated cotton from Marcy Tilton, the lining is a black silk twill.

3. The Butterick Tote (Butterick 5540):

img_3728

Started: 2013.  I started this project when we introduced my then toddler to the beaches of the Chesapeake Bay.  I got distracted and never finished it.  All I need to do is add the lining.  We go to the beach regularly now (it’s only an hour away) and I’ve got plenty of totes that are more beach-appropriate.  But this one will be useful for day trips in the car.  The fabrics are cotton twill and linen, both from the old Gorgeous Fabrics, and the lining is rayon acetate.

4. The Matthew Williamson Caftan:

img_3729

Started:  maybe 2014?  This one never really hit UFO status.  I pick it up every summer and work on it in spurts.  I finished the caftan last summer, 2018, but decided it was too plain (in spite of the fabulous fabric).  I need to add the trim, as in the photo.  That’s it.  I’m definitely finishing this for this summer.  The neckline is too low, so it’s a layering piece.  The fabric is a stretch double georgette that I am almost certain I purchased from the old Gorgeous Fabrics, but it could have been Emma One Sock.

5. The slim, very fitted, tank dress (Vogue 9184):

img_3726

Started:  2016.  This dress is more fitted than the pattern let on. It’s also when I realized I was gaining weight (but went into denial).  I let this one out as much as it can go, but it’s a no go.  I held onto it thinking, maybe if I lose the weight…  The plan with this is to finish the armholes and the hem and donate it.  It’s too nice a fabric to just throw away (a linen from Britex Fabrics, underlined in cotton batiste).    I do plan to make this dress again this year, but in a larger size, and after a muslin.

6. The McCall pieced top (McCall 7390, view B, adding a sleeve):

img_3722.jpg

Started: 2017.  I had made this top before, but decided to make another with the flared bottom and sleeves.  I thought my work was sloppy, so I stopped, disgusted with myself.  After examining it, I think I was being too critical.  Yes, the fabric (a soft silk cotton voile from the old Gorgeous Fabrics) is soft and difficult, but it’s worth finishing.   However, I’ve decided the sleeves are a bad idea.  I only need to finish the armscye and the neckline.  It will be a lightweight summer top.

7. The Carolyn PJs

img_3719

Started:  2018.  This one technically never made the UFO pile – it stayed on the sewing table, staring me down.  I started it last February, but kept making error after error. I knew I needed to work on something else and/or take a sewing break.  This was at the beginning of my dad’s precipitous decline, so I think I was struggling to focus, and maybe having a little too much wine.  I’m better know, and desperately need pjs, so it’s back on the agenda.  The Japanese cotton is from Farmhouse Fabrics.

Seven old projects, back on the agenda, many near completion.  I think I can do it, as long as  I remember to intersperse them, along with the mending, with new projects.  Of course, that’s easier said than done!  And, which to finish first?

 

 

Musing on 2018, 2019

I haven’t really written a “reflections” blog on the sewing year before, but I’m finding reading others’ blogs useful for thinking about the future.  Thus, here I am trying to sum up the year and move forward.  Frankly, 2018 wasn’t a great year for me personally, so perhaps I dove into sewing a bit more to compensate.  Here I will talk about what worked, what didn’t, reflect on the ready-to-wear-fast, and discuss sewing goals and plans for 2019.

What didn’t work:  Tops and dresses.  The torso is the hardest part of the body to fit, especially without a partner/fitting buddy.  It didn’t help that I haven’t been honest about my pre-menopausal body.  I finish an item and expect to see the svelte 30 year-old, not the body whose midsection is stubbornly clinging to weight.  But I really did have misses with tops and dresses.

Or at least I thought tops were a total failure – I made/attempted 11 tops!  I had four complete failures (the Ralph Lauren top, the two attempts at chiffon tops, and converting a woven top, B6134 to ponte).  Four of the tops were okay – but I don’t wear them often, and don’t know how long I’ll keep them.  The color-blocked ponte top (M7600) is comfortable, but not so flattering, as is the red Mandy boat tee.  I kinda like the woven version of B6134, but the fit is off and it’s not comfortable to wear.  I might make another version. I also kinda like the statement sleeve top, but not sure it’s me.

 

I really don’t like the summer dresses I made this year.  The proportions are off. I may shorten the black rayon ponte dress. I will still wear the floral for running errands.

I wore the Pucci pant with the terrible fit exactly one time, and like other items I made with bad fit, they went to Goodwill.

What I loved:  quite a bit, actually! 

I fell in love with Paco Peralto!  His skirt, his wide-legged trouser, and the big shirt!  I made the 8 gore skirt twice and wear them all the time.  I made four pairs of the wide-legged trouser – in black linen, purple linen, pink linen (not blogged) and black suiting.  I wore the black and purple linen so often  I wore them out.  The big surprise was falling in love with the big white shirt.  It took me a while to pair the shirt properly, but it looks awesome with the black wool suiting wide-legged trousers.

 

The Pucci shirt was a surprise!  I hated it at first: it was too blocky and unflattering on me.  I add some darts to add shape, and found myself reaching for it on a regular basis.  It transferred into cooler weather well, when paired with a black blazer (which toned downed the loudness a bit as well.)

 

 

I pretty much liked everything else I made during the year, but the above were my favorites.

Reflections on the Ready-to-Wear Fast:  I participated in the RTW fast over at Goodbye Valentino this year.  Basically, no RTW purchases (except lingerie) for all of 2018.  I found it relatively easy to stick to the fast – I had no real desire to purchase anything. It could be that we had no major events or travel requiring new clothes, or simply that I have slowly, over the years, filled in some of the major gaps in my wardrobe.

The one thing I did learn was to think more deliberately about what to sew.  Like a magpie, I’m drawn the the showy, pretty outfits that get worn once or twice.  Now, I think more carefully about how pieces I make will fit with existing items.  Two months ago, I spent some time purging clothing (both RTW and hand-made) that I don’t wear, or doesn’t fit, or I don’t really love anymore. Some things I still loved, but simply didn’t have a place to wear or would never fit into again.  I was surprised at how liberating it was to let go of these pieces.  It’s helped me set up my wardrobe planning for the coming year.

I also enjoyed meeting more men and women in the sewing community.  Before I moved to Florida a few years ago, I had a neighbor who would ooh and ahh with me over patterns and fabric.  She had an eye for fit and proportion as well.  I started this blog when I realized I was going to move and lose her daily advice.  But it can’t replace her.  The Facebook group has been helpful – even on those days I simply read about other trials and triumphs.

Will I continue to fast?  Not deliberately.  I’ve always preferred what I make to what I buy, even if my skills weren’t up to par.  But some things I don’t care to make – technical gear, such as running clothes, and cashmere sweaters (which I can only wear for a very short season here).  If I see something that I love, and it fits/flatters, I will buy, but I will continue to build my own style.

So what about 2019? Cleaning out my parent’s house has been a eye-opening. I didn’t realize how much STUFF they had.  I’m sorting through photos, old letters, and other items that we’ll keep.  But we’re also sorting through a whole lot of things that ultimately just take up space.  Every time I come back from their house, I clean out a closet and make donations.

My stash is huge – fabric, patterns, zippers, thread, buttons.  How did this happen?  I track my purchases and makes in a spreadsheet, so I know what I have.  But I have too much.  I patterns are one thing – I collect the vintage patterns.  But I need to sew more and buy less!

My goal last year was to reduce my fabric stash – and I managed to sew or give away more yardage than buy for the first time since I started tracking.  But it wasn’t a big dent, and wouldn’t have happened without donating 20 yards to my son’s school.

Goal number one:  sew more than I buy! 

Goal number two:  don’t be distracted by what others make and blog!

Goal number three:  shop the stash before hitting the online vendors!

Other than that, I would like to keep sewing to add to gaps in my wardrobe. I would like to conquer fit on my torso – shirts and dresses.  And, I’d like to reduce my UFO pile.

Last night I wrote down (in about 10 seconds) the items I would like to make in the first quarter of the year.  Well, I am ambitious – I’d be lucky to make them all in one year.  But here are two pictures of what I’d like to make in the coming weeks:

IMG_3694[1]
Unfinished business.
IMG_3695[1]
New Business.