When did I start this one? Paco Peralta pant & jacket, V1526

I started Paco Peralta’s short sleeved jacket and pant (Vogue 1526) in August after returning from vacation.  I purchased the fabric and planned the project months and months before that. I finished hemming them Sunday, and wore them to work.  I’ve been that busy – just an hour every couple of days. I finished the big white shirt some time ago, but chose not to wear the full combo.  I did wear it with a pale peach linen top from New Look 6483 (modified view e.)

So, a brief post, with comments on construction and fabric, with a picture or five, but as I’d rather being sewing in my all-too-brief break from work, this will be short.

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In process, collar.

Jacket fabric/notions:  I used a cotton blend tweed with black ribbon woven in from Marcy Tilton.  I saw it elsewhere, but it was two years ago, and long sold out.  I used a white silk crepe de chine for the lining, and the black silk/cotton fabric leftover from another project for the trim. It was fully interfaced with pro-weft light from Fashion Sewing Supply.  The large glass buttons are from Benno’s Buttons.

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Getting that center back seam perfectly lined up.

Tank fabric/alterations:  the tank top is New Look 6483, view e, modified.  I added a shirt tail hem, and bound the armcyse and neckline.  The peach linen is from Gorgeous Fabrics, and I used the same black trim from the jacket to do the binding.

Pant fabric/alterations:  The fabric from the pants is from Emma One Sock, 2018, and is a burgundy/black cross weave wool suiting from Rag and Bone.  I did the Hong Kong finishes (different from directions) and pockets with the same black fabric from the jacket.

Construction notes, jacket:  This is really an easy jacket to put together and fun to make.  I especially like the in-seam buttons and the collar construction.  I’m really proud of the construction work on this one.  I did make a muslin, but gained weight (argh) before finishing, so I probably should have made a 14, not a 12, to prevent pulling at the waist.

Two points/errors in the directions/pattern.  The pattern envelope line drawings do not show a center back seam for the lowest (hip panel), but there is one.  This is only an issue since I needed to patch the “plaid” in the tweed.

Second, I found the instructions confusing when finishing the facing/hem in the jacket.  The directions led me to search around the internet, and my closet, for proper finishes.  I managed to make it work, but the pictures leave much to be desired. In some drawings, it shows one thing, and others, something different. In the last couple of pictures, it shows the facing unfinished.

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How I finished it.

Constructions notes, pants: What can I say?  I LOVE these pants.  Perfect fit for me at a size 14, right out of the envelope.  Can I just say that Paco Peralto knew real women’s bodies?  Lovely, lovely faced pockets, an easy to create fly front, and construction like men’s trousers when it came to the center back seam.  You attach the waist facings to the two sides of the pants, then stitch the center back seam from the crotch notch all the way to the facing edge.  This way you can more easily alter the pants to take them in/let them out.  I love these pants and will be making more.

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Additional pictures, some with wearing wrinkles:

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3 thoughts on “When did I start this one? Paco Peralta pant & jacket, V1526

  1. That jacket fabric looks SO YUMMY! And your finished it beautifully in the inside. This entire ensemble has been on my ‘to sew’ list since the darn pattern was released, and its so helpful to read your review of the pattern. I confess to being a bit afraid of the shirt’s largeness, though. I like how you’ve worn the jacket with a simpler one.

    And very encouraging about the trousers. Your post has inspired me to dive into this project.

    1. Thanks! I should mention two things. First, I did not interface my pocket facings. My fabric was pretty firm, and I wanted to reduce layers in the seam. Second, you MUST check out the blog Couture et Tricot (link on my page) before you sew anything from Paco Peralta. I discovered her when I was attaching the jacket lining. She was very close to Paco, and provides very detailed couture techniques on his pattern (and has sewn every last one of them). In some cases, she gives details that didn’t make the pattern instructions (I think Vogue sometimes simplifies?) Her work is beautiful.

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