Ah, bold stripes (McCall 7889)

I was determined to complete a project in February.  I started with the Guy LaRoche suit, but find myself frozen on the double welt pockets.  In an attempt to pull myself out, I decided to make this spring dress.  Easy, peasy, except…

Stripes.  Irregular stripes, with lycra. And a bold fabric with a flaw every 40 inches.  And, all of this with a 40″ wide fabric.  I knew the last two facts before purchasing.  I didn’t really read the stripes correctly until after I started cutting.  Doesn’t matter, I wouldn’t have had enough fabric to perfectly match the stripes everywhere anyway.  (And would have wasted a lot of fabric, too).  I feel pretty good about what I did manage to match, however.

First attempt to match the stripes from the sleeve to the shoulder.  That small red stripe was off just enough to drive me crazy.  I pulled it out and got it right the next time.

Since this is a relatively new pattern release, I’ll do a “formal” review.

Pattern:  McCall 7889 (c) 2019.  Very loose fitting top and dresses, with button front closures. Sleeve, contrast, bias cut and neckline variations.  I chose view C, the featured view, with contrast bands and long sleeves.  PS: It’s really just a shirt-dress.

Fabric:  A really lovely stripe from Emma One Sock.  I purchased it last December, and I’m certain I bought the last of it.  It has black, raspberry, white and strong pink stripes.  The pink and black are the consistent stripes – the raspberry and white narrow stripes are very irregular.  The fabric is from the designer Diane von Furstenberg.  A cotton poplin, it also contains some lycra from crosswise stretch.  The pattern recommends poplin, gingham and cotton blends

Sizing:  I purchased A5, which contains 6-14.  I cut a straight 12, thought it feels quite big in the shoulders (very loose-fitting means lots of ease…).  The sleeves feel too long for the length of the dress – the model’s sleeves appear shorter.  I added 1.5 inches at the waist to accommodate my long torso.  I wish I had added some to the skirt for a slightly longer dress (though not much).

Instructions/changes:  the instructions were just fine.  This is a simple garment, complicated only by the fabric choice.  Because of the cross wise stretch, one layer of fabric would stretch as I sewed on the cross-grain with  the other layer on the lengthwise grain.  I basted a lot to help eliminate it, and it also helped to keep my stripes mostly matched up.  I didn’t press my pleats much beyond two inches (one inch either side); the directions say press, but not how much.  I didn’t have enough fabric for the tie, so I used a leather belt in my closet. Last, because of the stripe and width of the fabric, I did a single layer layout.

I spent a day or two studying the layout.  Because the fabric was a series of panels, once I figured out what went where, I cut the panels apart, pressed the fabric, and painstakingly worked with the stripes to match them up the best I could.

Does it look like the pattern? Mostly. The sleeves seem longer, and I have long arms.

Recommend/Make again?  Yes, I recommend this, but take care if your fabric has stretch.  I don’t think I’ll make it again, unless I make the shirt version.  I just really liked the version on the model, and fell in love with the pink stripe.  I had to have it.  It’s not really something I would normally choose, so we’ll see how much comfort I have with it. I think it will make a good vacation/going out dress, but not so much going to work dress.

And the final photos… the selfie stick would stay locked in position, and I was too lazy to do make up and hair!

cut my head off!
Here you can see how long that sleeve really is!
One more headless shot, that shows how short this is (I’m 5’9″).