I love a crisp white shirt. I reach for one regularly, so I knew it was time to make one. When I was in NYC this summer, I deemed my wardrobe was in for an upgrade – it needed more style, a little edge. Enter the Paco Peralto big white shirt (Vogue 1526).
The shirt has an interesting rolled collar, fun placement for the pocket, and opportunities to learn/practice tailoring skills. I need more work on collars, flat-felled seams, and button holes. I really enjoyed making this shirt. (Note on pictures: I re-pressed after these pictures.)
The silhouette? I’m really not sure. In looking at a few of my recent shirt makes, it’s all been about fit and ease. This shirt is not described as “very loose”, “loose”, or any of the other clues that Vogue gives about the silhouette. Judging from the model and the line drawing, I judged it loose fitting – or having a lot of ease. Even though I think a fitted style is more flattering on me, I once again chose a loose shirt. This has everything to do with living in a hot, humid, location.
But this shirt is BIG. I cut a size 12, and didn’t add anything for length. The sleeves on the model appear 3/4 length, but are closer to 7/8ths or even-full length (no clarification on the pattern description). Once again, I did not make a muslin, but this was more about learning the techniques than worrying about the fit. I’m not sure about it, it may grow on me. I still LOVE the collar, and did enjoy making it. But I think I’m going to go for a more fitted/semi-fitted shape next.
The pattern: Vogue 1526, by Paco Peralta c 2016. I made view B, the shirt. “Shirt has dropped shoulder and long sleeves with cuff.” End description. I do plan to make the jacket and pants, but I never had any plans to pair it with the shirt.
The fabric: an all cotton poplin from Marcy Tilton I bought last year. It’s crisp, and a little difficult to iron – I washed, damp-dried, and pressed with starch the final version of the shirt. I used less fabric than the pattern called for, even with the rolled collar on the bias. The only interfacing is in the collar – I used the crisp shirt interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply, but I’m not sure I thoroughly fused it to the poplin.
The instructions: are fine. Definitely baste every time suggested, and more. You definitely want to baste the placement and seam lines for the shoulder and sleeve seams. I ended up pulling out my first attempt on the shoulders and redoing for not doing so. Step 22 (slip-stitching the cuff) shows the incorrect drawing: You should have a right-sided (folded over) cuff slip-stitched to the wrong side of the sleeve seam. The drawing shows only right-sides.
Will I make it again? I don’t know. I think I will scale it back. Looking at these pictures, it’s almost 80s oversized on me. Perhaps if I wear it untucked, belted. (The angles below de-emphasize the looseness!)