I dropped my machine off today for service at my local sewing machine repair shop, only to learn that the repairman/owner was retiring at the end of January. The local bead/vintage button shop closed last month.
BRRRR… it’s cold outside! So I hear. In reality, I’m sitting in shorts and a tee with the window open listening to the crickets. Phenomenal Florida weather. But I’m going to the land of ice and snow – and when I looked through my winter clothes, I realized I was in need.
I purchased Butterick 6388 for the collar, and fully intended to make a dress (view D). I’ve been on the fence about it-I will make it, but I’m not sure about wool. I made view C for my trip to Colorado. This is an easy project.
The fabric: a Mark Jacobs wool doubleknit I purchased from Marcy Tilton in 2011. Actually, it’s a remnant – I originally paired it with a red knit to make Vogue 1313 (DKNY). I still have the dress, but I almost always feel like a Trekkie in it. The quality of the fabric is amazing, and I love the heathered black. I managed to eke out the top (view C) on about a yard and a quarter. I did have to piece the collar – not enough space for a fold – adding a center back seam to the back of the collar. The recommended fabric for this is sweatshirt fleece or french terry.
What I changed: Not too much, actually. I did top stitch every seam except the side seams to help keep the seams flat – wool double knit can be thick.
Construction and instructions: The instructions are perfectly fine. Again, this is pretty easy. I did add the top stitching.
I have found that Butterick patterns (more so than McCall or Vogue) tend to have a lot of ease – particularly on anything sized XS-S-M. By the measurements, I should have made the medium (size 12/14). But I tend to the smaller size of 12 in the shoulders. I cut the small, but stitched 3/8″ seams at the sides/arm; everywhere else is the traditional 5/8″. I used my straight-stitch machine, serging after the fact (since I was fitting as I went). I think my decision was the right one, as the fit is spot on for me.
The top hits right at the hip. When I tissue fit, I knew I should add two inches to the length since I’m long-waisted. There is very little shape to this dress, so where the waist hit didn’t matter so much for the top. I will add it for the dress.
Front and back views, overexposed to show the black, and the dropped sleeves.
What I learned: I’d forgotten how warm this fabric is! I won’t get much wear from this here – but it’s cute/casual/sporty. I like it, even thought it’s not much more than a sweatshirt with a fun collar. I need to be very selective about my wool double knit purchases since I really don’t need any in my wardrobe. It also means that I don’t have a fabric for the dress. I originally planned to do this in a grey wool double knit purchased at the same time…
Up next: I’ve been really busy – who isn’t. BUT I FINISHED THE RUCCI SUIT! Yes, I finished it a week or so ago. I didn’t like the pictures on the dress form, so I’m waiting for a chance for someone to take pictures with me wearing it. I also made an orange silk jacquard midi pencil skirt, but haven’t had time to blog about it yet. What to sew? I’m thinking the Paco Peralta with the short sleeved jacket, or a vintage Guy Laroche suit, or a lace dress… but no sewing while at my in-laws.