Another skirt & top (Vogue 9030 & McCalls 6964)

I love skirt and shirt combos.  So comfortable, so versatile.  I saw Vogue 9030, and thought, View C i just what I like – simple, graceful, comfortable to wear, without fear of wardrobe malfunction dealing with a small child.


Vogue 9030, view C:  The back of the envelop states bias skirt, with side zipper, raw edge finish, and raised waist; suitable for moderate stretch knits and stretch wovens.  This pattern is super easy, with two pieces.  Just remember to hang your hem!

I did a mock up in a knit and discovered a few things.  First, that I would be able to make this in a non-stretch woven with few modifications.  Second, even in a knit, you need that zipper.  I made a size 12, noting that this moderate stretch only pattern has two inches of ease at the waist, and five inches of ease at the hips, and it is cut on the bias.  This means that the high waist is going to stretch with wear and would work just fine with a woven. And it does.

My modifications were simple.  Instead of a raw hem, I did a narrow machine hem (the fabric frays).  Last, I cut the interfacing for the waist on the grain, instead of bias, to stabilize the stretch.  I inserted an invisible zipper – though for the first time ever – I got a wavy zipper!  Thoughts anyone?  Should I have interfaced the zipper area, or purchased a lighter weight zipper?  I used a YKK#2 from Wawaks.

The fabric is from Gorgeous Fabrics.  It’s a silk-linen blend in golden tan – just a few yards left.  It has a very light sheen, yet sueded in feel, and subtle striations.  It’s got both body and incredible drape.  I purchased this for something else, and have enough left for a pair of wide-legged, flowing pants.

McCall’s 6964, modified: I made the skirt around Christmas, but realized as I failed to reach for it again and again, that I didn’t really like any of the top options in my closet. I’d also resolved to stop making things that don’t coordinate with what I have!  It’s been chilly here, so I wanted something a tad warmer for the core.

I had some very lightweight berry-red wool double-knit from Mood, purchased in 2012.  I used it to color block Vogue 1313 – I still have the dress, but it always reminds me of a Star Trek uniform.

Look closely: the original v on the left, from V8536 on right, and the dark line was my final choice.

I modified McCalls 6964 some to account for less stretch in the knit.  I made a size 12, but with 3/8 inch side seams.  I also changed the v-neck to a rounded neck by overlaying Vogue 8536.  That was a bit too modest, so I lowered it slightly from there – in the photo, it’s the middle chalk line.

I considered shortening it, but didn’t so I could hide the wavy zipper.  I wanted it to resemble a sweater more than a t-shirt, so I blind hemmed the sleeves and lower hem.  For the neck line, I cut a two inch strip of silk habotai and made a facing. It works, thought I did have to lightly tack down the facing to keep it from flipping up.

Overall thoughts? The combo looks nice enough for running errands and dropping off the kid at school.  Not sure about it for work – not stylish enough.  It seems rather plain – I am trying to think about accessorizing it.  I tried a leather and brass chain belt around the hips.  I think that is the way to go, but the one I have is too wide.  Any thoughts?

BTW, I probably won’t make the skirt again, though I will go back to making t-shirts from this pattern, as all I’ve made have been successful.  I did note on this version that I get some pooling at the back.  I think I needed to make a sway back adjustment.