Thanksgiving Part III: McCall’s 6844 & Vogue 8750 Pictures

We’re back.  My grandfather (in his 90s) was thrilled to host 24 or so for Thanksgiving yesterday.  It’s been decades since I can remember that many children playing on fields surrounding the circa 1890s farmhouse.  It was renovated when I was a kid in the 70s (to add plumbing – I remember having to use the outhouse – and other modern conveniences).  But it still looks the same as when I was a kid – there is something reassuring about that, since I grew up an Army brat.  Of course the fields weren’t planted – it was winter – and you can see the new homes built over the last ten years.

My grandfather seemed pleased  at all the ruckus, and as I stood in the chilly wind watching the children play chase and football and try to climb the trees, it brought back a flood of memories from when I was that small. I still can’t believe nothing was broken in the house!  The kids were oblivious to everything and just had so much fun in the outdoors.

I promised some pictures of me in the outfit I made.  These pictures were taken in the same living room as the one above with my mother, grandmother and great-grandmother.  Of course, that was pre-renovation, but the decor was the same.  I would have had more photos taken, but, well, you know how it goes.  Hope everyone had a good day!

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PS: I need to find a salon.  My hair needs a cutting/coloring!

Thanksgiving Part II: McCall’s 6844

M6844, Misses'/Miss Petite Cardigans

I love this cardigan.  McCall’s styles it well here, belted with a sequined belt (not included) that really shows the potential of this pattern.  It’s a basic, to dress up or down.  I finally got around to making it, for the Thanksgiving outfit.  This has been reviewed many times on Pattern Review, so I’ll keep it short.

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I used a beautiful, nubby wool blend sweater knit that was still available at Gorgeous Fabrics as of this writing.  Its perhaps a bit too heavy/nubby/textured for this cardigan, but I like it.  It’s definitely too warm for Florida weather, but, I do need something to keep me warm in my over-air conditioned office.

After reading numerous reviews, and a quick pattern fit, I decided to make a few changes and leave other things the same.  Some reviews suggested that this pattern ran large, but the pattern-fit suggested otherwise. In fact, I have skinny arms and the arms are snug! I did make my usual adjustment for being long in the torso.

I changed the order of construction to suit my needs and simplify the process, pressing and finishing seams/edges as I went:

  1. Stabilized and stitched the shoulder seams (stabilized due to the weight of the knit).
  2. Stabilized and stitched the peplum pieces to the front and back pieces.
  3. Sewed the sleeves in flat (SO MUCH EASIER, and you can stretch gently for the ease).
  4. Sewed the side/arm seams.
  5. Hemmed the peplum and sleeves, by hand.  The texture of the fabric dictated this.  But it took forever (I blind catchstiched the peplum).
  6. Interfaced (protricot deluxe fusible from Fashion Sewing Supply) the shawl collar.
  7. Stitched the collar together, but did not baste the edges together as directed.
  8. Sewed the interfaced edge of the collar (under collar) to the cardigan (pressed seam to under collar).
  9. Turned under the collar edge 5/8″ and slip stitched the pressed edge to the seam from step 8, easing as necessary.  I did this to  have a finished edge instead of overcast edges. Personal preference.

This is sooo easy.  I think I could have done it in an evening (once cut) had I not opted for the hand-stitching. And looks pretty good too.  I will make another in a lighter weight.

As for the rest of the Thanksgiving outfit?  Two out of three ain’t bad.  I cut the t-shirt out, but I won’t finish it until later.  Whole outfit picture coming after the feast.  But here are front and back finished versions on my dress form:

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Thanksgiving Outfit: Vogue 8750 & 8536 ; McCall’s 6844; Part 1

The plan, anyway.
The plan, anyway.

My family moved around a lot while I was growing up, and by the time we were all adults, we were pretty scattered around the U.S. (and overseas). When I graduated high school and went to college, traveling home for the holidays was impractical. I stopped celebrating many holidays, and getting together as a family has started to occur only at weddings and funerals. It’s a little sad, but us siblings have created new families where ever our lives took us.

Now, my parents aren’t doing so well and as much as I hate traveling during the Thanksgiving holidays, we’ve decided that we will leave our cocoon and head north to the family farm. Our son can visit with his grandparents and great grandfather while it’s still possible, and see his cousins. This sense of urgency has struck us all, as all but one sibling will be able to make the journey.

Not that I need an excuse to sew, I did decide to make something new for the day, especially as my mom will ask if I made anything new. And since I have limited time, it needs to be easy and comfy. I’ve been wanting to make the cardigan McCall’s 6844 (view C) for some time, and recently settled on the sweater knit in the photo. I’ve made the t-shirt (Vogue 8536) multiple times, and may get it done, though it’s the last of these three items I’ll tackle. I’ve finished the skirt (Vogue 8750), which is the subject of this post; I’ve cut out the cardigan and will start it later tonight. Hopefully, I’ll get some pictures of me in the outfit on thanksgiving day, which will go in the final post I make about the trio.

Line Art

The 2011 version. I made this skirt (view A) first in 2011, right after it was released and in a soft blue gray stretch denim from Emma One Sock. I was proud of my craftsmanship – and it was one of the first things I completed post-pregnancy (a huge accomplishment). But it didn’t fit. Oh, did it hurt to wear! What was I thinking, not measuring my body or doing a muslin post-pregnancy?   Silly girl. I still have it, and after my recent weight loss, I could put it on and close the zipper. But it was still too tight, rode like crazy when I walked, and the poorly applied grosgrain cut across my tummy. I’ve wanted to remake it ever since making it the first time. I even purchased the denim right away. The dark wash, very light-weight, denim has been languishing in my stash ever since (St. Johns, from Marcy Tilton)!

I have no notes on the first skirt about modifications I may have made. I know I pre-shrank the fabric, but I’m pretty sure that was before I learned the markings on my sewing machine for 5/8 was off (too wide by a couple hairs). But since I had the earlier skirt, even too tight, I used it to judge what adjustments to make in the width. Spoiler: I still should have done a muslin first.

The 2014 version. This is a really easy skirt too make, even with the reverse curves and all the edge stitching (more practice for the Rucci dress). I think next time I will construct the reverse curves the couture way, but the traditional/instruction methods worked fine. You could choose to highlight the lines of the skirt with contrast stitching, or even consider colorblocking (I saw one or two on PatternReview do this). I did semi-contrast edge-stitching on the first version. This time, the dark wash looked dressy enough for work, so I matched (not perfectly) the thread. The edge-stitching makes a difference on this skirt, turning it from home-made to something much nicer, so don’t skip it. I compared my edge stitching across the two versions – I’m getting better! And I’m really learning the value of basting – I’m now matching my seams nearly perfectly for the first time.

Matching the side seams.
Matching the side seams.

The instructions are pretty easy to follow, and I did so for the most part. I changed two things, and on a future version, I would definitely change a third. First, I prefer the look of an invisible zipper, so I followed the instructions from Lladybird’s tutorial. I’m still trying to perfect my zipper application skills, and realized from her post that my plastic invisible zipper foot may not be helping me. I still place the zipper wrong, as it was too close to the top to put a hook/eye closure. Next time?! Here’s a picture comparing the insertion method from the instructions (from the 2011) to the new version.

The 2011 version, left, with zipper as instructed and the 2014 version with invisible zipper
The 2011 version, left, with zipper as instructed, and the 2014 version with invisible zipper.

When I did, I sewed the entire CB seam – forgetting about the back slit – which became the second change. I took a chance and left it that way. Since I made version A, and I’m tall, I have no problem walking in the skirt without it. In fact, while it looks like a pencil skirt, the fit/cut is more in between a straight skirt and a pencil. It’s the seaming that gives the illusion of narrowness toward the knee.

The third change is related to fit – or at least the appearance of fit. I knew from the previous version, and from careful measurements, that I needed more girth through the hips and waist – mostly in the waist. When I measured, I used up all the ease at the waist. So, I decided to let out the seams a bit. For the CB, side seams and two front seams, I used ½ inch seams. This would give me an additional 1.25 inches breathing room. Since the CB contained the zipper, and the front seams were edge stitched, I basted the front and back together and tried it on – and whew, it fit, with a little wearing ease, or tucking in shirt. And the side seams were straight and centered on the hips. Happy me!

Well, I wore it to work today and the report is: it still rides, but in a weird way. It’s not tight, and standing still, I have no wrinkles. But when I made the walk to work (which I do quickly, and not lady like), it rode up a bit, and fell. What do I mean? Well some of the riding up may have to do with the panty hose I had on – it seem to “catch” on it. But the front waist “fell”. It’s a bit too roomy between the navel and you know where, but just when standing/walking. Sitting, things change. I think the fix it easy though. The grosgrain ribbon waistband finish is definitely not the right way to go. I did it, even though I had misgivings. My heart told me to cut and interface facings in a different fabric. But I didn’t. Because this skirt sits at the waist, it needs more support to keep its shape than one that sits low on the hips. So, that would be my third change.

Another hypothesis – I have very athletic thighs, and while the skirt is not tight through the thighs, the skirt is riding to a narrower point. That’s where my legs join the pelvis.  An interesting wrinkle developed – it almost looked as if I should take a sway back adjustment right there.  It’s widest point was at CF, tapering to nothing at the seams.  Any thoughts?  I tried to take a picture, but just couldn’t manage the selfie. Perhaps when I’m at the farm.

Of course, I will make it again in a couple of years. It’s a classic look and easy. For those who want the slimmer look that is so trendy right now, consider making it in scuba or ponte (adjusting for the ease).

And, better/more pix in a few days.  This one is hard to photograph well.

Pink Denim Flounce… Butterick 4593 update

I finally got pictures of my niece modeling her skirt (Butterick 4593, which I blogged about last month) – she LOVES it, even though it is way too big for her.  Here she is:

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I made this in a size 7, and by all accounts, she should have had about 1/2 inch of ease in the waistline.  see for yourself:

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Somewhere, we have measurement error!

Her mom wants an elasticized pull on style, so I recently ordered an indie pattern – Favorite Things Little Hip Skirt:

The pattern also recommends a 7 for her, but I’m using a knit this time, and thinking of going down.  Anyone tried this pattern yet?

Quick question about interfacing… The Rucci dress (V1239)

So, I’m finally back to the Rucci dress.  I’ve made nearly every construction decision necessary, such us stitch length, etc.  However, when testing the fabric, I’ve decided that I want to add a little bit of interfacing to the neckline.

The dress is faced with self fabric from the back of the neck to the hem, and along the bottom panel of the dress/hem.  I would like to “interface” with silk organza, as well as add selvedges to stay the neckline.  Most fusibles are applied to the facings – should I do this with the sew in silk organza as well?

I’m tempted to underline the entire thing in organza instead.  When I tested the seams/needle/stitch length & edge stitching, I tested with organza and without.  The organza doesn’t add weight or much stiffness (the silk poplin is already fairly stiff), but the seams were smoother and flatter (and more professional looking) with the organza.  I decided to ditch the topstitching and just edge, and that also helps.

Line Art