Update 9/29: Muslin done. Construction is straightforward, a few errors in the directions. This requires precision stitching, so I will be doing a fair amount of basting. I’m also NOT going to follow the instructions for reinforcing all the reverse corners, using Schaeffer’s Couture technique instead. If your fabric isn’t stiff, then you’ll want to underline the collar with silk organza. Last thing, a size 12 was the way to go or I’ll be ripping out the back/side seam when I raise my arm! I also need to add some length (1 inch) to the torso.
Is it a wrap dress? Or a coat dress? No matter, when Ann of Gorgeous Fabrics suggested a wrap dress sew-along for National Sewing Month, I thought, of course! I’ve had Vogue 1239 (Ralph Rucci) on my list since it came out in 2011, and even bought the fashion fabric at the time … but haven’t gotten to it yet. And here it is the end of September and I’m just getting started (September was crazy at home and work and I barely touched the machine).
I really like the simple clean lines on this dress. The sleeves are interesting, and the standing collar will elongate the body. It just looks classy. It’s got some interesting construction points to it, and it will challenge me with respect to perfect top and edge stitching. Simple-looking dresses can be difficult to look professional, so I’ll have to take my time. On the other hand, no zipper, no set in sleeves.
The fabric? A beautiful blue silk poplin, from Isaac Mizrahi, that I picked up at Mood Fabrics. The silk habotai lining is French Bleu from Gorgeous Fabrics, and was still available three weeks ago when I bought it.
I’ve read reviews on the dress, and many complain about the directions. They seem straight forward to me, but I’ve only looked at them for the conceptual plan, not the details. Others suggest issues with sizing.
Because this style may not work for me, the construction may be challenging, and sizing, I’m making a muslin first. I usually would do a 12 (or even 14 for the hips), I looked at the flat pattern measurements, and there is a whole lot of ease here, especially for something described at “close-fitting” (almost 8 inches at the waist and bust). I’m taking a chance, because I cut the muslin at a 10 as a result. My shoulders usually fit 10 best in any case. Of course, we’ll see how low cut this really is as well.
I’ll make the muslin, then the lining, then put the dress together. Because this dress is more involved, I’ll probably take time to finish a project and make a skirt for my niece and a Halloween costume for the wee one.